Songyang City

 From what little we saw on our various drives through Songyang City going in one direction or another, it is the usual typical mix of new and old, dilapidated and modern, crowded and empty, polished and haphazard, with a few very old parts in the middle, some of which have been kept for the tourists and others as a bit of an afterthought.

Songyang was a Ming era town (1400s ish onwards) built on the river traffic of trade and transport. At its height there were perhaps seven processional gates for entry, exit, and good fortune, one on each major approach road. 

One beautiful battered Ming Gate remains on a quiet square surrounded by new buildings which gives it a slightly absent-minded appearance. The remnants of its neglected history are obvious but it does not detract from its historical importance or intricate beauty:

Walking under the arch was supposed to confer blessings, especially if the Emperor had recently been through it.

Afterwards we headed down to the old street, the last MingQing Gujie remaining in the city, and quite the tourist trap. It had some amazing old low buildings along it, from wood 15th and 16th centuries, and stone 18th and 19th centuries. The shop fronts were open to the street, food stalls dotted all along, crowds and crowds, dilapidated and restored buildings mixed up together.

This family apparently have been traditional balance (scales) makers for several generations.

Wine merchant; we saw these huge traditional jars in use all around the villages. In this shop the girl, a 12 year old in local traditional costume, used a dipper to give my sister and friend a tiny porcelain bowl of rice wine to try. The alcohol seems to be brewed and stored in the huge jars then decanted into recycled plastic bottles of various sizes for sale.

Closed shop fronts; it was the height of the Chinese New Year so a lot of places were shut.

Woven coir and bamboo clothing, brushes and bags; it was a cross between a display and a demonstration. These traditional bamboo raincoats were to be seen all around the villages hanging on walls. They are said to be very water and weather proof as the water simply runs off, a bit bulky and virtually indestructible.

Bric-a-brac and antiques and all sorts of weird and wonderful items.

Copper pans and cast iron tea pots, I was awfully tempted but can you imagine the weight in my luggage?

A traditional banner for a traditional tea shop, sadly closed.

A menu, some places did not seem to have a menu especially out in the villages; you asked for whatever you wanted, or what someone else was eating, or waited to see what they would serve!

Traditional Chinese Medicine shop.

Noodle making.

A family who invited me into their house as I was standing waiting for the other two; the old man wanted to show me a traditional food cover which his grandfather had made maybe 100 years ago, a bamboo frame with woven ndara grass. It must have been nearly a meter square and at least 15cm tall, with a central handle, and still in use. That was their main room and kitchen opening onto the street, not a museum or anything. Then they wanted a photo. It was both endearing and entertaining, much more of a village attitude than we saw elsewhere in the city. A Chinese tourist kindly translated for me so that I could understand the old man as I hadn't a clue why I was being invited inside.

Afterwards a randomer hassled my sister and half the family lept out and chased him down the street, yelling, which was also interesting for a different reason.

This building (below) was the old tobacco merchants home and warehouse, we ambled in and had a look as the old lady was not fussed. There were various sheds and outhouses along the access corridor before it widened out into a more traditional home, stone rather than wood, obviously a lucrative business, JJ Fox eat your heart out!

Apparently the cerulean glaze on the ceramics is a local style, it was very pretty... but I refrained from buying a whole tea set, which would have been really nice.

Later we visited a very old Confusion temple, once again empty of contents. The photos do not give an idea of its size, beauty, or peace. It was big 15m by 12m or larger, I am not good at guessing, with a high arching roof and cold despite the sunny day.

A much needed takeaway cup of green tea was bought in the tea shop there before meeting our driver and heading out to a rather disappointing tea plantation. The tea terraces and gardens in and around the traditional villages were much more spectacular.

And then home to our village via a café for a supper of steamed vegetables.

Enough history and culture for one day! I hope you are not worn out just reading and looking!